There is something so unique and rustic about cities that are brimming with history and culture. These cities talk about a time long gone by and help us go back to that time. Hampi is one such city that allows you to turn the dial back and go into a realm that has passed us centuries ago.
Once a city destroyed by the invaders, you can still find the ruins of the monuments lying astray, Hampi has now become a popular tourist spot. It is not just for the rustic charm of the city or the amount of history it commands, but it is because of the temples in Hampi.
Hampi has an extremely popular temple trail in South India that passes through the most important and amazing temples located in India. Each of these temples is beautiful and stunning in their way. Yet, there is one temple that truly stood the test of time and has become an icon in the landscape of Hampi – The Virupaksha Temple.
Here is an account of my visit to the iconic Virupaksha Temple to help you plan your trip better.
About The Holy Temple
Virupaksha Temple is one of the main attractions in the Hampi Temple Trail. It is one of the oldest and the most awe-inspiring temple in India. The temple was built from the 7th Century and every new ruler int the region has added his touch to it, making it truly unique. It is one of the iconic landmarks in the trek and is located right next to the serene Tungabhadra River.
There are two ways by which you can reach the temple – one through the wonderful and colorful Hampi Bazaar and another through the Hemakuta Hill.
The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and you will find several inscriptions paying ode to Lord Shiva and Parvati. It was initially a small shrine which then grew bigger and bigger under the garb of the other rulers. Especially under the Vijayanagara rulers, Virupaksha Temple grew int a huge complex.
Upon your visit, you will find a lot of art and culture imbibed into the temple that belonged to the Vijayanagara period. It was in this period that art and culture truly flourished in India, and the result can be seen on the Virupaksha Temple.
The Virupaksha Temple even withstood the invasion that destroyed the entire city of Vijayanagara. Almost every other structure was destroyed yet the prayers inside this temple did not stop. Such is the power of this temple.
Several theories try to explain why the invaders never destroyed the Virupaksha Temple, yet there is no conclusive proof to support these thirties.
One such theory suggests that the invaders didn’t realize that the lingam is a form of God and hence neglected it completed. Others suggested that the power of Lord Shiva was so strong and powerful and even the invaders couldn’t touch the Temple.
Final touches and renovations were made to this temple in the 19th Century, which made the temple even more beautiful and what it is today.
The Story Behind The Virupaksha Temple
Some several legends and stories try to explain the origins of the Virupaksha Temple. One such interesting story suggests that Parvati was born in the region of Pampa. The city of Hampi was initially called Pampa.
She had a strong desire to marry Lord Shiva and hence sat in penance for years on the Hemakuta Hills, right opposite to where the temple stands as of today.
Eventually, Lord Shiva realized her dedication and married her. The location where Lord Shiva married Parvati became holy and sacred. In that very place, the Virupaksha Temple took birth. Thus, even now locals believe that marrying inside the ornate mandapam of the Virupaksha Temple is highly auspicious as Goddess Parvati and Lord Shiva themselves bless the union.
The Architectural Marvels of Virupaksha Temple
When you first see the Virupaksha temple, which can be seen from any high point in Hampi, you will first see the imposing yet intricate Gopuram. Gopuram is like a tall tower and is almost a defining feature of the South Indian architectural style. This majestic Gopuram of Virupaksha Temple is about nine stories high, and it is difficult to turn your glance away from it. The Gopuram of the Virupaksha Temple is called The Raya Gopuram.
The main entrance is through the brilliant Gopuram.
In the present time, the main shrine has a sanctum, three chambers, a wonderfully carved pillared hall, and an open pillared hall. All of these elements make the Virupaksha Temple so wonderful. There are also several courtyards, smaller temples and other sculptures all around the temple.
Once you enter through the Gopuram you will then be on the path to the main worship area. The path is decorated with dancing figurines on the floor. The detailing is wonderful and stunning. It truly makes the path look divine and give a feeling that you are approaching something grand.
As you approach the temple entrance you will be greeted by an Elephant! This is the most unique and fun part of the Virupaksha Temple. An actual Elephant is standing right at the entrance offering guests garlands as they come in. It is so well trained and so gentle.
The entire exterior walls of the doorways and the Gopuram has different carvings that show different stories and legends about Lord Shiva. One of them shows a hunter donating his eyes to Lord Shiva. There so many cravings like that, and each of them weave stories from the forgotten past. You will feel as if you are walking into a storybook that has too many stories to tell you.
The carvings are so well crafted and detailed that you will be able to make out exactly what it depicts.
As you enter the temple you will be at the main sanctum. Here photography is strictly prohibited. Yet, this is one of the most beautiful halls that you will come across. It is adorned with amazing carvings and exquisite artworks. It is almost impossible the number of minute details that have been carved into the art!
There are several pillars all of which are smooth and amazing to touch. It feels like a machine has made them, no one in their right mind can even phantom that humans are capable of such finesse.
As you traverse your way through the Virupaksha Temple you will come across the famed marriage mandapam. It looks so majestic and regal that you will feel like just standing there and staring at it for eternity. It would take you eternity if you try to take in all the minute details carved in evert single pillar in that room. There are several scenes from different epics and stories that have been carved into the pillar. It is like someone has provided a wonderful visual to otherwise written texts.
There are several panels here one of which depicts the trinity of Hinduism- Brahma (Creator), Vishnu (Protector) and Shiva (Destroyer)
Other wonderful artworks show the marriage of Shiva and Parvati through a stunning painting. The painting is so detailed that you will be in awe. It feels like you are a witness to this sacred and holy union.
Several other Gods are shown in the other panels all of which are too beautiful and you will at a loss of words to even describe their beauty.
If you are lucky you might also see marriages being conducted in that awe-inspiring hall. It is a wonderful and auspicious thing to witness while standing in such a stunning hall.
The side walls are also carved and you will once again find Shiva and Parvati being depicted in them. It almost feels like their marriage or their holy bond is the essence of this temple.
You will also find stories from Mahabharata being depicted in the carvings like Draupadi’s Swayamwar among many others.
Some pillars show mini versions of the Virupaksha Temple itself from its base to the Gopuram.
After the marriage hall, you will come across a rock edict. It has several inscriptions in Kannada. It is a list of repairs done by the Vijayanagara rulers. It is a great lesson in history to read it and understand their input into this awe-inspiring temple.
Away From the Sanctum
After visiting the main temple you can also head towards the sanctum dedicated to Bhuvaneshwari. Goddess Bhuvaneshwari is said to the Goddess of good fortune and hence she has a separate sanctum for herself as well.
Another interesting and wonderful feature of this temple is that it casts an inverted shadow of the Gopuram. This shadow can be seen from a little room located in the northwest corner of the Virupaksha Temple. This just remains a mystery, as to why this phenomenon takes place.
If you walk beyond the north gate you will also come across the Manamatha tank which is painted red and white. It is flanked by several small shrines. From this path, you can also go to the Tungabhadra river, which is a peaceful and calm place to roam around and explore.
Saying Goodbye
After witnessing such splendor and grandeur, you can also visit the other temples in this trek. While due to lack of time I chose to only visit only this iconic Virupaksha temple, it is highly recommended that you embark on the entire Hampi Trail and glance and all the wonders that the route has to offer.
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